Jag måste nog också berätta lite om Kautokeino. Kautokeino ligger alltså ca 4 mil in i Norge om man kommer från söder från Finland, närmare bestämt på 69:e breddgraden. Vi valde Kautokeino för på kartan så står det namnet i lite större skrift än de andra få orterna som finns utmärkta på vägen mellan Karesuando och Alta men jag måste erkänna att jag hade aldrig hört talas om Kautokeino tidigare. Här bor ca 1300 själar och jag tror att de flesta är samer. Kvinnan på campingen var helt övertygad om att vi måste stanna minst två nätter i Kautokeino, men jag var ihärdig och sa att en natt räcker. Men så här efteråt så ångrar jag mig nog lite, det är ju troligen på sådana här ställen som man finner det stora i det lilla. Vad fann vi då i Kautokeino, jo på campingen fann vi en tyska som var på väg med cykel till Alta där hon skulle jobba i vinter, vi fann ett italienskt par som hade farit hela vägen till Kautokeino för att titta på silver och nere i byn fann vi den Samiska Högskolan med samiska som huvudspråk. Allting här uppe står ju på minst två språk, samiska och norska/svenska/finska beroende på vilken sida om gränsen man befinner sig och det är ju självklart att det borde vara samiska som är huvudspråk här.

Vi tittade också in hos paret Juhl som jobbar med silver. Frank Juhl kom hit till Kautokeino från Danmark på femtiotalet och samerna upptäckte snart att han var duktig med det mesta och bad honom bl a att laga deras silver smycken. Samtidigt så hade Regine, en ung tyska, tagit tjänst som piga här i Kautokeino och så började deras historia tillsammans. Idag har de byggt upp sitt varumärke som silver smeder och är kända över hela världen. Deras fantastiska historia och deras ännu mer fantastiska hus som de till stor del har ritat och byggt helt själva är ett måste när man är i Kautokeino.

Sen är det Kautokeinoupproret 1852 då en grupp samer gick till angrepp mot representanter för det norska samhället. De dödade handelsmannen och länsmannen samt misshandlade kyrkoherden och ett stort antal samer som inte stod på upprorsmännens sida. Så vad var de så upprörda för? Jag har googlat lite om det här men misstänker att det egentligen är en riktigt lång historia och att det finns fler aspekter i det hela, men i korta drag handlar det om att upprorsmännen var nyväckta laestadianer och de som de gick till angrepp mot delade helt enkelt inte deras övertygelse. Alltså ett slags religionskrig fast i en del av världen som vi inte förknippar med religionskrig.

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